London- Shopping, Burough and Jaws

A whirl wind day in London. That day before a big trip when you realise that you have a lot to organise. First off to Borough, our fav market at London Bridge. Unfortunately missed Emily but sampled a few of the local delicacies. So much cheese, Grommet would be in heaven.

Then off into town to Standfords the home of maps and guide books. The destination was decided upon, we are off to the Pyrenees. The track, the high traverse. We don't have enough time to complete the walk by about a week butt hats life. It looks amazing anyway. After spending an hour and half searching for all the maps we went off to meet the others.

Hyde park is amazing in summer, so many people, deck chairs, lots of things happening. Today there was a small world music festival, an off shoot from Womad which is happening out at Reading this weekend. There was also heaps of roller bladers showing off their skills, even with someone filming. There were also deck chairs for sale, painted by artists, muscicians, the money raised was going towards saving trees somewhere.

While the others headed off to explore the tourist sights. We had our eye in the ball, ticket for BJ to Australia. These were booked surprisingly fast. one hitch, paper tickets, which will have to be courier to the airport for pick up. then a few last buys, film, waterproof trousers, GPS??? (how did that sneak in peter), sunnies, sun hat.... etc

Lovely dinner back in Camden with Pri and Minot. Watched jaws, Pricilla screams were much more entertaining than the movie.

London- Farewell drinks agian???

Woke a little tired. Spent the morning on the phone to BA trying to sort luggage. We were finally told that the likely hood of our bikes being found was low,\ very low. But they couldn't declare them lost till day 45 so change of plans. We decided to head to the Pyrenees where we were going to cycle anyway. These run between Spain and France and from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. It a great place to walk and there are several long distance tails. Once we decided the flights were booked!

We met up for lunch with Emily and a long lost dutch friend, Esmerelda and her boyfriend. they were over for the weekend, to see London. We then ferried some stuff back to Ems while they went out to see the sights.

Then back in to town to strangely have fare well drinks again at the same pub we were at 5 weeks ago??? very Deja vu. But they weren't our far well drinks, Sam, an old work mate of Pete's was leaving the firm. Good time to catch up with everyone. Typical England we were all standing outside under umbrellas having a pint. Great summer weather.

London- global cities and dinner at Dave and Adel's

Off today to the Tate to see the Global Cities exhibition. It is touring from the Venice biennale. I will let peter explain what it was about!

The exhibition was a smaller part of the complete biennale, but focused on the theme of the overall exhibition. It took 9 example cities including London, LA, Lagos, Mumbai, Cairo and compared them in terms of how efficient each city was. Not efficient in terms of how much power, but more aimed towards what is its density, how do people use the city, what affects the city structure and all that type of stuff. We were quite surprised that London has a density of about 3000 per square kilometer and reached its peak population in 1939, while Mumbai has a density of 34500 per square meter.

We hid in the Tate coffee shop for a while as the rain teamed down outside and then made a run for it. Off to Dave and Adele's for dinner. Nice stir-fry and then a movie.

London- Art, coffee and friends

Funny to wake up in the same room from wich we left 5 weeks ago. Much of the day was spent organise tax and closure of Pete limited company, boring. In the afternoon we headed into tow, destination Stanfords, the map shop. Another surreal experience, no looking at cycling maps this time, off to the hiking section. So much to do in Europe, something that caught both our eyes was the Pyrenees. I have wanted to go back since my brief trip a few years ago. Maybe this is the moment.

We then headed off to Mammout in Covent garden. They do it so well. Darn good coffee and cake. Beautiful area, lovely designer shops and boutiques, all hideously expensive. Then off to the Portrait gallery to see the annual portrait competition. Wow, the entries were amazing. One of the paintings was so real, I found myself checking the label to see if it was really painted. Then off to meet a few friends at the Old Crown for a pint. Great to see familiar faces and catch up on the last 2 months. Seems like some strange time warp.

Yorkshiore Dales to London

Left the Dales early to start the journey back to London. Traffic was thick on the M1 but still made it to Bedford on time. Here we met up with Mildred, Caroline and James, relatives of Bridgette and went out to lunch. The pub was by the river, not flooded, but almost. Then down to London, drop off in Hackney at our friend Emily's house. Quiet night.

Week 8- still no luggage, the Yorkshire Dales

Copenhagen to Yorkshire Dales- unknown (1697)
Highlights- exploring the Dales, coal mine experience, visiting the Black sheep brewery, walking up one of the tree peaks, discovering Malham cave area, finding the hidden waterfalls at Ingleton
Lowlights- still no luggage, lots of rain but no floods, no rain coat
Accommodation- Bridgette's parent's holiday accommodation in Steaton

A funny week of being in limbo, no real idea where the luggage was or how long we were going to be off the road. But we had a great opportunity to spend some quality time with Bridgette's parents and explore the Dales better. We stayed in Steaton a small village south east of Skipton south of the Yorkshire Dales national Park. This provided a fantastic gateway into the Park where there's lots of walking and places of interest to explore. This is a huge caving, rock climbing and waterfall spot due to the masses of limestone. This provided lots of opportunity for adventure. It also has the three peaks (not mountains), one of which we walked up.

Unfortunately the week was marred by the pending or actual down pour of rain. With our rain coats somewhere in transit we were stuck with ponchos and umbrellas somewhat limiting our hill walking exploits. But we were more fortunate than most of England with no major flooding. The water actually filled the rivers and made many of the waterfalls quite spectacular. The bad weather days were spent exploring some of the indoor attractions including the National coal mining museum. Sound a bit daggy but the 150m ride down underground was a bit of fun, and the tour guide was an ex-miner provided a hilarious yet quite purposeful explanation of the the mine and mining in the UK.

option is for 5 week cycling to Spain where Peter will be A lot of time was available to contemplate the options for our ride. As time ticks by the opportunity to dive deep into Europe and down to turkey is fast disappearing. A more realisticstudying over the northern winter. This is a little disappointing since we have progressed little actual distance towards Australia since our departure in May. But I guess we will have to return next summer with a vengeance.

Yorkshire Dales- Bowland Forest

Last day in the Dales and we are all suffering cabin fever. Off to the Forest of Bowland where giant expanse of forest once stood. Don't let the lack of trees fool you, once you've wound your way through farm land for an hour eventually you do stumble upon trees. Small pockets of trees, but more than we have seen for weeks none the less. Out we jumped keen for a walk, to quickly discover the even terrain of the tracks. Built for motorized wheel chairs mmmmm so easy walking, hardly the south-west Tassie. We then moved on and explored some lovely roads leading deeper into the 'forest' where the hills where higher and moors formed on the tops. Here grouse and other birds were spotted.

The rest of the day was spent tiding up the house for an early start tomorrow. No luck with BA again today.

Yorkshire Dales-Farmers market, Black sheep beer and brimham rocks

Sunday means farmers markets in the Dales, somewhere. After a little research on the internet one was located at Pateley Bridge in northern Yorkshire. A small market but very active held on the show grounds in the center of town. The area was divided into the food and a flea market. Priorities first, the food, there was everything from smoked trout to freshly baked bread to backyard grown plants. One baked goods stall especially got our attention, everything looked larger than life, better, bigger and they had an almond croissant. Meanwhile, mum perused the flea market picking up a few hooks and needles with really knowing what they were used for.

Then it was off to find the Black Sheep brewery, a micro brewery that has recently won many awards for their ales. Micro brewery no more perhaps, as the we discovered a large visitors center, restaurant and tours on offer. Our guide was a lovely Yorkshire lady with a sing song accent and a great love for beer. Their claim to fame is using these Yorkshire squares or round squares now they have change shape. Apparently requires a special yeast and changes the taste of the beer. We got to try a few pints after and can affirm the taste pretty good.

Then it was off to Briham rocks a climbing and bouldering area Bridgette had been keen to see all week. It is protected by the national trust and is a major tourist desalination. These amazing formations sit high on the moore land, with boulders stacked on boulders, area carved out and large cliffs in places. You could quite easily climb all over them and wander through the surrounding ferns and trees for hours. A pang of jealousy hit as people unloaded their bouldering and climbing gear an we set out on a walk. But that's life you can't pack everything.

Yorkshire Dales- Down a Coal Mine

The rain was actually falling today so off to do the museums. First on the list was the National Coal Mining Museum. My dad was very keen but we were a little skeptical, but they advertised a tour underground at 150m for free which sounded like a bit of fun. So off we went. We arrived in the nick of time to catch the first tour and were equipped with hard hats and lights. John, our tour guide, an ex coal miner was superb with lots of tales and laughs. Amazing to think whole families use to work these mines over 200 years ago and it only closed in the 80's. They still had the horses which were used in the mine up until it was closed.

The rain persisted through lunch so another museum for lunch. The National Media Museum featuring photography and film, as well as an Imax. Well Harry Potter was showing and needless to say it was sold out being opening weekend for the book. The museum was interesting but really orientated to children and families, like most of the museums in the UK. A little said since a lot of the substance seems to be lost as they try to make child friendly.

A break through tonight as one of the bags arrived at my aunts house in Canterbury. Still no bikes, they haven't even found them yet.

Yorkshire Dales- Fountain Abbey and York

We had run out of ideas today so we decided to followed Helen and Chris out to an Abbey that they wanted to see. Not just any Abbey, but Fountain Abbey, National Trust, World Heritage, important stuff. We borked at the entrance fee much to my dads disgust and decided to explore the extensive estate instead. First on the agenda was the deer park where a huge heard was spotted almost immediately. Then we followed the path through some beautiful country estate gardens. The path led though an area known as nine bridges where nine dry stone bridge zig zagged across the river. In the valley are enormous old trees. Having been in the dales where there is little forest, this was quite amazing.

So mesmerized by the landscape we kept walking (with no map). We then discovered these little markers which Pete swears he saw back at the entrance (he actually did, but it was a through walk, not a circuit). These led us through cow paddocks, farms, and eventually into another estate. At this point we had half an hour to get back and no real idea where we were. We got a few vague directions from the residents, but it wasn't until we asked at the eloquent Yorkshire riding school that we got back on track. An hour and half later we arrived back at the car, not really knowing where we had been, but our feet definitely sore for it.

That afternoon we decided to head off to York to explore England's biggest Gothic cathedral, the Minster, and the small winding cobbled shopping district. But first a tasty coffee stop, wow what a surprise great coffee! Around and into the cathedral packed with French school children (just like Canterbury). Then off into town, we discovered quiet quickly the predominance of pubs and all things relating to beer. Several bottle shops just specialising in local and international beers, stocking the usual Boags and Coppers selections. The city center is lovely with cobbled narrow streets and small shops squeezed into the old buildings. There was the constant threat of rain with a giant black cloud looming all afternoon. We just making it back in time before it bucketed.

Off to the pub for a Friday meal out. We arrived famish after this days exploits and rather large detour on the way home. Lovely warm pub in just down the road. Pete didn't break tradition with fish and chips followed by sticky toffee pudding, yum!

Yorkshire Dales- Pen-y-ghant

Another beautiful day in the Yorkshire Dales, rain and thundery showers may be forecast but the skies were crystal clear. Today was the day to go up at least one of these infamous three peaks. We set off towards Horten-on-ribblesdale, a long name for a small place, to discover the town had more than a campsite and a pub. We stayed here several weeks earlier while passing through the Dales on bike but hadn't really venture passed the entrance. Since its on the Pennie way and three peaks circuit, it is a key area for walking and has a lovely cafe!

Inny meeny moo, Inglebourgh to the right and Pen-y-ghant to the left, Pen-y-ghant it was to be. Off we went along the Pennie way through the fields and sheep. We made quick progress past quite a few walkers going the other direction and were surprised to be at the summit in a hour. Since we were meeting Bridgette's parents at 1pm we had another 3 hours to kill. So off we went down the other side, soon finding out this was the steeper and perhaps more spectacular route. There was an amazing drystone wall that crawled its way through a boulder field and the tried to climb up the wall. However it didn't quiet make it and missed a section before continuing on the summit.

After meeting the mum and dad, everyone was filled with indecision about what to do that afternoon. We weren't inspired to walk up another hill, Chris wanted to sleep and Helen did know what she wanted. Eventually we headed towards Hawes, further up the valley deep into the Dales. We passed the Ribbleshead viaduct and the third peak Wernside. Hawes biggest attraction was a creamery, being tight fisted we refused the entry fee and went straight to the tastings. Great sheep milk cheese.

We then headed home through a town named Gayle! The small c road wound up through a deep valley to a pass. Here there were great view of velvet green hills, dotted with sheep and sliced up by long straight drystone walls. The road soon descended with a sign saying 25% decline into another valley. This was remarkably different with the village center around a wide flat river the flowed through multiple cascades. Bridgette promptly fell a sleep here and missed the rest of the scenic journey (thus end of blog).

Yorkshire Dales-

Quiet day, forecast was shocking although Steeton seemed to be spared. We did venture out for a not so inspiring walk into the next big town. 14km along a road and canal took us to Keighly. We managed to find a less than average bakery, only to walk out to find a great coffee shop up the street. That's the way it works in new towns, you either strike it lucky, or you completely bomb out.

After a quick burst of shopping at tesco we jumped onwhat was perhaps the world's longest bus ride home. Best news all day was that they have located a bike, yipppppppppppeee. We might be on the move again. Looks like a ferry to Bilbao and across the Pyrenees.

Yorkshire Dales-

Another quiet day, rain, rain ad more rain. We ventured out in the afternoon to find a memory card reader and cables for the Ipod and that was it! Well we are adventurous. Looking forward to getting the bikes back.

Week 7- lost luggage, Copenhagen, Yorkshire Dales

Copenhagen to Yorkshire Dales- unknown (1697)
Highlights- Finally going somewhere (back to the UK), Yorkshire Sculpture Park, 2 great short walks
Lowlights- lots of time traveling, still no luggage
Accommodation- 1 night on a bus, 1 at Bridgette's aunts house in Canterbury, 4 at the house swap in the Yorkshire Dales

An interesting week, marred by the return by the UK but lighten by spending time with relatives. The week started with little optimism as we discovered our contact details and even bag tags had been incorrectly enter at the airport. So even if they had found the bags we would have been reunited. This meant several trips to the airport. Then the difficult decision, where to go, we couldn't sty forever with Sylvia.

Finally it was decided to head back to the UK, cheaper, easy to sort out the luggage and catch up with Bridgette's parents. With obvious reservations about boarding another plane and a tight wallet we opted for the bus. 20 hrs in a bus didn't seem that bad after 40 hrs in an airport. It felt great to be on the move again, be it in a coach. However we soon became delayed, then missed the connection and arrived late into Dover. So we were one day late leaving and eventually drove on Friday 13th (and survived).

Back in the Yorkshire Dales staying in a house exchange in the little town of Steaton. Jut down the road from the Sculpture Park which was missed before. Beautiful park displaying work Henry Moore, Andy Goldsworthy, and Hepworth. The highlights being the Goldsworthy exhibition in the underground gallery and perhaps not the sheep shit painting we walked 6km to see.

We then spent the rest of the week exploring the hills and waterfalls in the southern dales. Limited slightly by our lack of gear, ie rain coast but we still managed several half day walks. The constant threat of rain and thunder seamed to be hitting everywhere else, apparently flooding parts of the Dales.

Yorkshire Dales- Ingleton Waterfalls

The plan today was to climb Ingleborough, but more rain was promised so we joined mum and dad. The walk looked impressive with a 17 waterfalls in one walk and a spectacular river edge to follow. I was a little surprised to find the area was private and we had to pay for the privilege of seeing it. (little did I know at the time, it was more than worth it).

We followed a river up the valley with waterfall after waterfall around every corner. The water was dark brown, like back home in south-west Tassie, and the rocks were covered in moss, enough to make you home sick. After having lunch at the top we headed up over the hill. At the top there was a conveniently place ice cream van, trust the British. The second valley had some beautiful areas where the water had carved out deep gorges. The walk finished in Ingleton where we had cup of tea and a cake with the local CWA ladies.

Before heading off home to take a convoluted path through the hills behind Settle to show mum and dad the path we had taken. It was as steep and narrow as I remember, but that rewarding feeling you get after cycling up a whopping great hill was missing. Can't wait to see my bike again.

Discovered one bag had been found by British Airways, in Milan?? On its way back to the UK! Only 3 to go now...

Yorkshire Dales- Malham Cove

No rain today so off to an early start. There is an area north of where we are staying called Malham which has some amazing limestone formations, caves and cliffs. Although we had the map, there were quite a few people and it was easy to navigate by following the steady stream heading along the path. First stop was Janet's Foss, a water fall which has carved out amphitheatre in the rock. Nice but small (the nature snob).

Then headed up to the Gadale scar, following a small river through a camp site and open pastures. Suddenly as you rounded a corner the the steep hill was carved open exposing a gigantic cliffs on both sides. You follow the river up between these cliffs, the temperature drops and sunlight disappears. Overhead hundreds of birds are darting in and out of the cliff face. Then further in to the gorge the water falls appear. For the brave the path continues up the waterfalls up above the gorge. For the mortals (or those with parents) we re-trace our steps down the gorge and over the paddocks.

These fields are filled with highland cows which are enjoying posing for the tourists. Bridgette has a quiet giggle as a photographer with an expensive camera almost meets his doom as he sinks to his knees in the mud.

The next feature of the walk was Malham cove a 80m amphitheatre with tessellated limestone pavement on top. We approach this from the top, crossing the pavement with panoramic views of the county side. The pavement is huge, with large pedestals of rock closely grouped together. In the gaps between the rocks are deep crevices which harbour beautiful ferns and mosses. There is a steep decent to bottom of the cliff where a small river emerges from the base of the cliff. Plenty of people are out to enjoy the area including some rock climbers, slight pang of jealousy. The RPS bird watching group are out monitoring some bay Peregrine Falcons. Unfortunately no sightings today but we did get to see a beautiful tawny owl.

Jumped back into the car in the nick of time, down came the rain. We took mum and dad on a driving tour of the hills behind Settle then headed home.

Yorkshire Sculpture Park

The thing about returning to an area that we have been to before is that we can now do the things that missed out on previously.

After a quick morning stop in Hebden Bridge we headed to the Yorkshire Sculpture Park to see, amongst other things, a new exhibition by Andy Goldsworthy. We were quite disappointed to have missed this last time, thinking that we would not have the opportunity again, funny world.

The YSP is huge, taking about 4 hours to do a complete circuit allowing time to appreciate the pieces. Scattered around the park are works by Henry Moore, James Turrel, Barbara Hepworth, Anthony Caro, Antony Gormley and of course Andy Goldsworth, which is what we really wanted to see.

The first part of the Goldsworth exhibition was inside, consisting of stacked oak, stone room, clay room, wood room, leaf stalk room and a very beautiful series of photographs showing the destruction of man-made walls by natural elements. In our minds, this is the Andy Goldsworthy that we are familiar with. The work was exquisitely constructed, with its simplistic beauty overwhelming. There were also a few very good external pieces, consisting of perfect dry-stone walls and suspended tress that were also very good.

The gallery at the other end of the park contained a series of Goldsworth painting, which we felt were not as strong as his other work. The work consisted of a cow dung mural, sheep feeding patterns, sheep-shit paintings and a series of blood drawings that were created by stuffing the carcass of a dead hare with snow, allowing the melted snow and blood to drip onto a canvas. We were not alone in our lack of appreciation for these pieces, with many patrons raising eyebrows and biting their lips. I guess in the end art is art, and you either like it or you don't.

As far as sculpture parks go the YSP is good, but its vast grounds and very light scattering of pieces made you feel a little disappointed. As the park has been running for 30 years, most pieces have come and go, but you can't help think that they could have easily kept a lot of the early work on site and still had plenty of room to spare. We felt that the Grizedale Sculpture park in the Lake District was a much better park, even in the pouring rain. The intimacy that it offered by seeing pieces within a dense and varying forest, was a much more honest experience compared to seeing art alone in fields.

Canterbury to the Yorkshire Dales

We awoke early after sleeping like fallen logs, as we needed to make an early departure. It's a long way to the Dales, especially when you have to stop in the Peaks District to pick up the keys.

To fill in the details, Bridgette's parents do a lot of house swapping with people in Europe. Through letting people come to Tasmania and stay in the cottage, the reverse happens and they get to stay in the other peoples house, at a time that suits them, for free. Correct me if I'm wrong, but free accommodation in a beautiful part of the UK while we wait for our luggage to turn up sounds like a pretty good option.

The amazing thing about heading north while we wait is that the distance that took us 3 weeks to cycle, flew past in a little over 6 hours of driving. Give us our bikes for transport any day, it means that you don't have to deal with the Motorways.

Lets see, it was Friday 13th, the first day of school holidays, two transit cursed people in the car, quite heavy rain and a huge amount of roadworks. Sounds like it was doomed from the start, but amazingly we arrived in Steeton, via Ashbourne, with only one wrong turn. In our books, that is pretty good going!

Dinner was had at the local pub where we were the only people dining.

Brussels to Dover

Woke up seedy and tired somewhere between Hamburg and Brussels. It was 5am and we were meant to connect at 6am, well I guess we might be stopping in Brussels! People on the bus are getting a a bit antzy, we haven't stopped since the ferry, I guess the drivers are trying to make up lost time.

We roll in to Brussels at 9am and they fix us up with a bus at 10am great service. Nice to recognise the language and be able to speak again! Great coffee, the type that puts hairs on your chest or wakes you from a 20 hrs bus ride, Pete was happy that all the hype about Belgian and French coffee was true, it was fantastic! Phone mum and dad and they are prepared to wait for us and then drive to the Yorkshire dales, this is going to be along day! Off to Calais from Brussels and on to the ferry. No queue here, straight on. Have to leave a few Russians in France due to them not having visas for the UK, which I imagine would also means that they are in France illegally too.

We ask the east European drivers if we can get off in Dover but they don't speak English or French. And we are met with the answer, 'no exit Dover'. No exit my foot, I was too tired to negotiate, so we walk off through customs as foot passengers. Meet mum and dad, only to exit along side our bus, obviously they weren't too perturbed by our absence.

We decided to stay Bridgette's aunts in Canterbury a few miles from Dover. yah! We crash land her little flat and send her life to chaos. That evening we are invited to the neighbour hood BBQ so with match sticks under the eyes we head off. Quiet night in the backyard of an abbey (what do you expect in Canterbury!) We met many of Pam's lovely friends. Great food including a bean salad to die for.

Copenhagen to Dover

We had till 4pm till the bus left. Off to do some last minute 'essential items' shopping. then off to the Danish Center for Architecture. It is situated on the river in an old restored building which reminds me of Henry James building. Like all good Architectural centers there was a great book shop which features a great book shelf.

On the bus at 4pm. A little confusion before leaving as there were too many people for the seats. Pete and I weren't moving, amazing how possessive you get. It took them a half an hour to weed out those who weren't meant to be there. We didn't really understand the significance of this till we got to near the ferry to Germany. Here we joined a long cue (again). I thought we have blessed everyone on this bus with our bad luck.

And there we sat for three hours quietly waiting. When we finally got on the ferry, we were amazed to see the sea crowded with tankers and feries. Needless to say we went to sleep knowing we were going to miss our connection in Brussels

Copenhagen

Day 43 Distance- 0km (1697)
Weather- sunny
Highlights- Danish Design Museum, lamingtons for desert
Lowlights- back to the airport again, still no luggage
Accommodation- Sylvia's house

Woke tired after a late night of booking fights, but we don't have to go to work. Off to do some tourist stuff and to buy essentials. The morning as spent navigating or way round a supermarket, K-mart type place which as Sylvia said 'has everything'. We had fun buying ingredients for lamingtons, and it took ages to find the coconut, all the labels and aisle signs in Danish didn't help obviously. The it was off to town to shop for essentials. A vague term which has proved quite difficult to define. But that does give leeway!

The highlight of the day was the Danish Design center which had the 2007 Danish design awards, and a Danish clothing exhibition. The Clothing show had lots of very shmick looking clothes ranging from track suits to wedding dresses, and even had a display of ecco shoes which Bridgette was very keen to read about as she had a pair in Tassie, and loved them to bits.
The design awards show had some fantastic pieces in it, the highlight being a beautiful black leather couch which looked like the love child of a bowling shoe and an 8-ball, and a range of black light fittings spanning from small point lights through to huge feature pieces. Also exhibited was a space-age dentist chair, graphic design, play equipment, clothing, amongst others. A small, but great exhibition.

Stopped off at the shops on the way home to purchase some essential items, then headed home to cook dinner for Sylvia. I think the highlight of her wee, apart from having us stay, as the huge lamington that we made her for desert, how very Australian. It was pretty good, even with Danish sponge cake, and had a thick layer of icing as you can't get it as thin as the ones you buy at the supermarket back home (I think they must spray it on).

It was a very enjoyable time in Copenhagen, despite the uncontrollable circumstances (weather and luggage). Catching up with Sylvia was great, and we even managed to convince her that she should go to London for a week to see Bridgette's parents (she has never been to the UK). Now all we have to do is sit on a bus for 21 hours tomorrow and go back to the UK ourselves to sit and wait for our bags to turn up!

Week 6- 40hrs Heathrow, Roskilde and Copenhagen

Aberdeen to Copenhagen- unknown (1697)

Highlights- Seeing Sylvia, Roskilde festival, seeing Copenhagen

Lowlights- 48 hours at Heathrow, no luggage, festival washout with no tent, Pete gastro, still no luggage

Accommodation- 1 night wild camp at Heathrow, 6 nights in Syliva's 1 bedroom flat (cheers muchly)

What a week, hard to believe a week ago we were setting out from Aberdeen so optimistic about our trip to Denmark and and Roskilde. It all started well, getting to the airport with a great Taxi driver who dismantled his car to fit our bikes. Checking in the BA who didn't even weigh out bike boxes.

Then we hit Heathrow and the tide began to turn. As most would know the UK had several acts of terrorism in the last couple of weeks and a suspect package was discovered at Heathrow Terminal 4 just as we arrived. So T4 was evacuated and all British Airways international flights to Europe, USA and Asia came to a stand still. As you can imagine, when you close something like T4 down for about 8 hours it tends to have a huge impact on the running of a smooth operation, so about about 4000 people were stuck in the Airport, with twice as many pieces of luggage sitting somewhere in the depths of luggage handling.

After sitting/sleeping in seemingly endless que stretching between terminals (remembering how big heathrow is, about 1Km between each of the 4 terminals) spending a night on the cold hard reality of the check in corridor floor, we awoke to rejoin another que to get out flight re-booked. This all went well until they cancelled our new flight. Pete muscled his way through the line and got new tickets for a later flight (he actually found the same nice BA lady that helped before and she did it straight away for us) which was delayed and finally got on a plane bound for Denmark.

Although we were assured that we would be rejoined with out luggage at the other end, they failed to specify when. No bikes of bags, which is bad news when you are supposed to be camping at a music festival. Enter the help of Sylvia, she offered her 1 bedroom flat to us for our stay until our bags turned up.

First day of Roskilde was a washout as we had no waterproof clothes. Second day Pete had gastro, so was spent in bed. We actually made the last two days and saw the likes of The Who, Muse, The Artic Monkeys and the Flaming Lips along with a bunch of smaller bands including Norwegian Bigbang, Lonely, Dear and Tunng. It was a great festival considering the circumstances.

Still no luggage. A day spent trying to sort things out, we decided to head back to London until BA get their act together, leaving Wednesday.

Copenhagen- Roskilde aftermarth

Day 42
Distance- 0km (1697)
Weather- sunny
Highlights- dinner out with Sylvia, getting tickets back to the UK
Lowlights- 20hrs of bus ride to look forward to, still no luggage
Accommodation- Sylvia's house

Slept in, catching up on sleep. Today was the day for sorting out our luggage and getting a ticket back to London. We started by heading off to the airport to talk to the airline that wouldn't answer their phone. So we talked to them on one of those wall phone which they did answer! No our luggage was no where to be seen so we redirect it to the UK. Now in to town to book a bus to London.

Turns out a lot of the Roskilde hord hadn't figured out a way home so we qued. Luckily we could get something for Wednesday, which would take us 20hrs. 20hrs mmmm half the price of the airfare better be worth it. We then went off to peruse some 'essential items' for our insurance pay out, ice breaker thermals and some Scandinavian out door gear. Wow, they have another league of thermal here, costing around $450, maybe not what the insurance company would classify as essential. Then off home. Out with Sylvia to a local restaurant for a nice dinner. Stopping on the way home at Sylvia's local to see a lady about a T-shirt. Late night, as we help her organise a trip to the UK. Yah she's off to London to see Emily.

Roskilde- Day 2

Day 41
Distance- 0km (1697)
Weather- sunny
Highlights- Muse, Arctic Monkeys, Tunng and dry mud
Lowlights- end of the festival, still no luggage
Accommodation- Sylvia's house

Yah the sunshine wopppppppeeeee. We pack our muddy smelly clothes and are off to the festival again today. The mud has dried out a bit so there are only small patches of swamp and mostly soft squeltchy bits. The camp sites now look and smell like a rubbish tip. Quite glad we are not there with everyone else.

The Arctic Monkeys were the first big act. Funny how 'British the sound is'. They were great but left before the end to check out a few of the smaller acts. We discovered another British group called Tunng who play acoustic guitar techno, sounds funny but was really good. They are a five piece group, came out wearing matching brown hoodies then realise it was too hot and got these off.

We then filed with everyone else to main stage to see the Muse. They were definitely pulling a big crowd. I presumptively plugged in the earplugs which was lucky because their sound was as big as the crowd. Great, heavy, loud, exactly what we expected. Once again we didn't stay the whole set but headed off to see the boys in matching red trackies, Data Rock. We had seen a video clip before and they seem a little like LCD soundsystem. Mmmm how wrong were we try electro punk, we reeled in surprise and stood there laughing at the these five Norwegian guys jumped round the stage.



We then made an executive decision to leave and miss Basement Jaxx to get out while we could. People were streaming out and the station was crowded but we got a train and headed home to our warm comfy bed.

Roskilde - Day 1

Day 40 Distance- 0km (1697)
Weather- Overcast, patchy rain
Highlights- first day at Roskilde Festival for us - the Norwegian BigBang and the Who
Lowlights- Mud, not being able to see the chilli pepers
Accommodation- Sylvia's house

With no luggage still, and Pete over a small bout of gastro, we finally set off for Roskilde Festival having already missed the first day and a half. We jumped on the shuttle train, only to find that our run of bad luck was to continue, being told that we could no longer enter at that gate without wristbands, and we still had tickets, but no wristbands as yet. We were also slightly discouraged by the sheer number of gumboots attached to peoples feet, even though the rain had stopped.

So we waited for the the next shuttle train back to Roskilde main station, where we were to catch a shuttle bus to the entrance gate at the other end of the festival. On the up side, we did manage to acquire a pair of gumboots each that were left at the train station, now we were able to enjoy the music and not destroy the only shoes in our possession.

Finally we arrive at the main festival gate, got our valued wrist bands and took of into the bowels of the mud pit. We were quite happy to find that as our luggage was missing we were not camping; meaning that if you can imagine sitting in a sodden tent, surrounded by a moat of 30cm deep cow and urine smelling mud, enjoying the constant rain for 8 days with 75,000 other people fun, then you would have great time. Personally it's not our cup of tea.

Our first band that we saw was a Norwegian act called Bigbang, who were fantastic. Very rocky bunch of lads who took to the main stage like they had been doing it for years. They even had brass accompaniment for a few songs. Fantastic.

In regards to walking around the festival grounds we can only offer one piece of advice - Gumboots. If you don't take them, get them, and if you can't find them, steal them from a rubbish bin like we did. They will be the only things keeping you sane as you wade through fields of slippery mud.

Next up were the Flaming Lips, who are a band that we should probably know more of their work, but somehow we have managed to obtain very little of their stuff. They were very good, although I think a better appreciation of their music would make their live show much more enjoyable.

A short break walking around a few of the other stages and we were graced by a few very bad sounding clicks-and-pops from the experimental electronica stage and then it was back to the main stage for the Who. It was possible the biggest crowd I have seen gather for one band, and they were great, belting out all the classics. It was a little disappointing to see a lot of the younger audience only singing along to the 3 CSI theme songs, but you get that. Roger Daltery's voice isn't what it used to be, but it still had a lot behind it and sounded pretty good. Brilliant!

Unfortunately we had to leave before the Chillie Peppers came on at 1am as we had to catch the last train home, but hey we have both already seen them at least once each so it was no huge disappointment.

Tomorrow it is back to the festival for the Artic Monkeys, Muse, Datarock and Basment Jazz, should be great. Who knows, our luggage might even arrive.

Copenhagen

Day 39
Distance- 0km (1697)
Weather- Rain, overcast
Highlights- day of rest
Lowlights- Peter has gastro, no Rokilde
Accommodation- Sylvia's house

Pete woke up with the vomits, poor thing. We passed a day resting at the flat. He sleep the day a way. Roskilde will have to wait till tomorrow. Still no luggage! Note set up internationa SIM card from Uk next time. Also, if you use vodafone UK, make sure you have credit on your phone before leaving the country, near impossible to get it sorted without some help from from friends on the ground in London (cheers mignot!)

Denmark- Copenhagen, Roskilde

Day 38
Distance- 0km (1697)
Weather- Rain, sleet, strong winds, mud
Highlights- the warmth of Sylvia's flat
Lowlights- Visitng Roskilde only to see arctic conditions and mud
Accommodation- Sylvia's house

Day 1 in Copenhagen we woke to the sound of pouring rain, but felt amazingly refreshed having slept a full night. Sylvia dug around for a few spare clothes so we could venture out and gave us a great big golf umbrella. We waited to see if the rain was going to disapaite but to no avail and by lunch we decided to head off to the festival despite the weather. It was cold, the rain was coming in at a 45 degree angle so the umberalla did little. We sorted train ticket for a few days at the central station. The place was a litter with people coming and going from the festival. The number of gumboots and wateproofs being worn made us pretty pesamistic about staying to watch much music. We got on the train and thought we can always come back.

We arrived at the festval and it was pouring and wind was strong. There was no grass left at the camp site and a enormous bog had formed between the train stop and the ticket office. We lined up briefly and waited thinking we could at least get our wrist bands and programs. A few minutes later, already soaked and goose bumps forming we looked at each other, thinking what are we doing, and silently left the line and headed back to the train. I was envious of the people who had managed to find full fishing water proofs. I think this would be the only way of staying sane. Meeting people on the train who were abandoning their campsite for dry accommodation in town said it wasn't worth it, the whole campsite was a float. Two Scots said in thick 'transpoting accents' its not a festival out there its a sh...t world of pain!

Sylvia was a little surprised to see us back so early but the warmth of the flat was nice and we definately prefered to be here and not there. We made pizza and had a night in infront of the TV, English movies with Danish subtitles.

Heathrow to Copenhagen

Day 37
Distance- 0km (1697)
Weather- sunny and air conditioned
Highlights- getting tickets and arriving at Copenhagen at 9pm
Lowlights- cueing, cancelations
Accommodation- Sylvia's house

Slept on and off, between the crying babies, rustling space blankets and nattering Indian ladies next door. Woke to hear a mass of people heading down the corridor to the lifts, 'terminal 4, is open'. I looked at my watch its 3.30am, surely not yet. People kept coming, and our line began to shorten. Should we go, now 16 hrs waiting in this line, and the ticket counter in sight. We decided to stay only to be woken again at 5.30 by airport staff who told us to move on. They said there will be no more checks in where we were and we had to go to terminal 4. Heart sank. We pick up our stuff and head off, Dave decides to stay and try his luck at terminal 1 counter.
Terminal 4 is a long way from terminal 1, it takes about 70 minutes to transfer and involves either a bus or train. Now there were a few thousands of tired, hungry people trying to get there, more chaos. We get on the train which gives a strange sense of relief, we are going somewhere, even it is only for 10 minutes. Everyone piles out at the station, it seems deserted, spirits are high, maybe they having been checking in since early and the line is short. These hopes are dashed as we surface in the terminal to be informed they are evacuating the terminal again because there are too many people. We are redirect to the car park to wait to have or flight called. What flight? We don't even have a flight!

Outside, marquees have been set up, police patrol the entrance to the airport and there are lots of bleary eyed tourists wrapped in blankets. London is putting on some fine English summer weather, chilly but not raining (yet). Gradually things begin to organise and a re-ticketing cue forms we join it. They have set up 4 large marquees in along line for the crowds to cue in. Peter goes to the front to check this is the right cue to find out we are now at the back again with three more marquees to go. The line moves at less than a meter a minute, at this rate we will be here tonight. We commiserate with people around us, all have stories of woe. Met fellow Aussies in the cue all smiling at how ridiculous this was and how helpless we were. Time passes, we advance half the tent in two hours. Peter and I revisit some other ways of getting to Roskilde, rent a car, a boat, a train or maybe just walk. Anything had to better than this. But with a tight budget and luggage somewhere deep in the bowls of BA luggage handling we decided to stay.

A small party is had as we reach the end of the tent, 4 hrs. There is coffee and sandwiches yipeee. Someone compares the situation to a western humanitarian crisis, ironically this is probably as close as it gets. We come up behind an elderly couple, lady in a wheel chair and her husband pushing. They look exhausted and we are wondering what they doing here in this mess. We try to get them through by asking people to more, no good. Dave leaves to get an official and finally with a few big guys in BA uniforms and a lot of yelling we manage to part the sea of people and get them out.

Dave bumps into a BA lady while out organise the rescue of the elderly couple who is quietly organising flights. She has a small ID badge, a clip board and a mobile. He manages to get a flight and comes back to tell us. I wait while Peter goes to bargain our way out of this mess. Any plane to northern Europe near Copenhagen will do until Saturday otherwise we call quits for Roskilde. He comes back smiling with victory. We quietly leave the cue, still apprehensive as to weather the booking has actually happened. We try to get our boarding pass but are headed away to come back when we are called. Off to have a muffin and coffee.

We are called, this is it, we almost run to the check in machine. Peter enters is card, then it says we are too late to check in. Darn, the cue for check in is huge, I join while Peter tries to talk to BA personnel, not good, he talks to the manager who says there nothing he can do. We are too late, then he adds, actually that flight is cancelled anyway. We are back to square one, no flight and no position in the cue. We drag our feet out the door already to cue again and Peter spots the lady doing we talked to earlier. She gets back on the phone and makes another booking. She says she thinks this flight is going but it may be cancelled but she suggests we line up to try and get a boarding pass anyway. I rejoin the line while Peter tries to again to get us fast tracked through the que. He does well and we are then the proud holders of boarding passes to a flight that might leave. We skip through security entering ‘terminal 4’.

We make our way to the gate and lay down and wait. Strangely no BA staff arrive to check people in. Half an hour before the flight quite a few people have accumulated but still no check in. mmmmm I am not hopeful. Then there’s a change in gates 15 minutes before boarding we all head down to other end of the terminal. There is a check in desk, BA staff..... there is hope yet, then we board, I almost leap in the air. We are on the plane smiling and exhausted. But unable to contact our friend in Denmark we still had no where to stay, and the possibilty of our luggage actually being at the other end of our flight is not very good.

We arrive in Denmark at 9pm, 40 hrs after we started. Sylvia is able to pick us up and we an stay. No luggage, the guy behind the luggage counter smiles, we might be waiting a while. All we can think of is bed.

Aberdeen to Heathrow

Day 36
Distance- 0km (1697)
Weather- who knows we did get outside
Highlights- Taxi driver and BA check in
Lowlights- the shut down of terminal 4
Accommodation- Floor between terminal 1 and2, Heathrow airport

We get up early to pack the taxi is at 8 am and we don't want to miss it. Nervous because there is no guarantee we will get a maxi taxi and our bike boxes wont fit in anything else. I think up a cunning plan to strap the cardboard bike box to the trailer and cycle, Pete is not impressed but we agree it’s a last resort. We wait outside and a taxi van arrives, I jump in the air with glee. Then we try to put the boxes in, they wont fit, the nine seats are not moveable and there is only a small space for luggage. After a little negotiation on the fare, the driver agree to take the seats apart for an extra 50%. We balance one box over the seat and the other in the middle then both of us in the front. 50% extra for the driver to do something illegal is not bad. Aparently it is also illegal for him to take two passengers in the fron with him, but he did it anyway.

We chat on the way to the airport about our travels, the drivers planned trip to Vegas and the recent bombs. He has a great thick Aberdeen accent, difficult at times to understand. He raves about Vegas, the hotels where he stays and the amusement rides he loves. He tells us there is increase security at the airport and we are lucky to be riding with him because they are the only taxis allowed in at the moment. As we arrive, the place is littered with 'bobby' cars, and the front is barricaded with concrete block so no one can drive a car within 500m of the front door.

Our check-in is the smoothest we have ever had. No arguments with check in ladies, the bike boxes get tagged and go straight through, nice and smooth, they didn't even get weighed. We rave about BA and I think I might use them on the way home. We get to Heathrow and go to transfer to terminal 4 where our other fight leaves from. We get down to where the bus leaves from and it’s crowded. Airport personnel announce terminal 4 is being evacuated due a a security threat. We have to wait.

An hours pass and we realie this is not going to pass quickly so we go up stairs to the duty free area and try to pass time. After a few hours we go back and still no change. We go to and from over the next few hours and then finally it is announced there will be no more flights out of terminal 4 till late tonight. We are told to leave there departure zone and report to BA ticketing.

We leave through customs with nothing to declare because we've been nowhere outside the UK, although we did have to go through a passport check. Funny to be back on London soil so soon. We then find the BA ticketing desk and a line from hell. It extends from terminal 2 to 1, about 1 km away. We join and cross our fingers and chat with the people around us. The que moves at a snail pass less then a meter a minute. Its 5pm, we ring our friend Emily and tell her we are stuck, she says she'll come out to the airport for dinner. Progress is slow and gradually BA staff give out information on how to arrange bookings. They suggest to either find a hotel and sit on the phone there, try to book through the internet or wait patiently. There is no available internet, the wait on telephone is 180 minutes and most of us have no travel agent. Very frustrating.

Emily arrives, food in hand and we sit down to a picnic in the corridor between Terminal 1 and 2. She stays for a while and then the BA staff announce they are closing the ticketing office at 10.30pm and we might as well go. Go where? to a hotel and then they add we can stay at the airport. We go off to have a beer with Em and our new friend Dave. A pint goes down well, hoping it might also help us sleep. We say good bye to Em and take up a sleep spot in the cue. We play cards with a few others for a while and then lay down to sleep. Blankets are handed out which make the lino floor a little less hard. We rest, only a few hours till they say ticketing will open and we can see the ticket office so hopes are high that we will have new tickets by the morning.

Week 5- West Highland Way, Great Glen Way, Cairngorms

Kingshouse to Aberdeen
Distance- 395km (1697)
Highlights- Curry night at Allan and Charity's, Glen Coe, West Highland Way, Ben Nevis Summit, Loch Lochy and Ness, Great Glen way
Accommodation- 5 nights camping, 2 nights in youth hostels
Trails- West Highland Way, Great Glen Way, Speyside Way, Tom's day out in the Cairngorms MTB- West Highland Way, Abriachan Park, Tom's day out in the Cairngorms
Problems- Pete's knees, everyone tired after 6 days straight cycling, splitting of the group for 2 days

An amazing week in the Scottish wilderness along loches and glens, surrounded by mountains. It started at Kingshouse, 1 day into the West Highland Way. We woke to a beautiful morning looking out over the start of Glen Coe. Good omen. Glen Coe was amazing, perfect day, we swept down the highway faster than the cars only stopping for some snap shots. Due to Pete's knees we split ways for the last section to Fort William. While Tom and Sarah battle for 8 hrs off track, Pete and Bridgette zoomed along the A road. We used the afternoon to summit Ben Nevis.

We then joined the Great Glen Way which connects Fort William to Inverness. This track was a little more civilized than the West Highland way, having been adapted for bikes and there's even a bike guide! The 80 miles was mainly on forestry tracks high above the lakes with small sections of single track. We divided the trip into two days staying at the Loch Ness Youth hostel situated half way on Loch Ness right on the water. Despite carefully watching the water there were no Nessie spottings.

We then took a hard right and headed towards Aberdeen through the northern Cairngorms. These 'hills' may not be as rugged as those in the Peaks and Lakes district but spectacular none the same. We used a combination of National Cycle network, Speyside way and improvised off track. A great night was spent at Timitul the highest village in Scotland. We then headed into the Cairngorms a long hunting trails and single track to exit around Balater. This was an awesome day of cycling with tall hills on either side, wild deer, sheep and a hand full of people. The final day was spent winding our way through the Derbishire country side into Aberdeen. Here sad goodbyes were said as Tom and Sarah headed off to the Shetlands and we went to Denmark.

Scotland: Aboyne to Aberdeen

Day 35
Distance- 46km (1697)
Weather- clear skies
Highlights- picking the right road to enter town
Lowlights- Tom and Sarah leaving, or were we?
Accommodation- Aberdeen Youth Hostel/Shetland's Ferry

Last day with Sarah and Tom. Sarah wakes to find her shoes melted after leaving them to dry next to the fire. The carnage from the fire is two inner soles, a pair of bike shorts and a pair of shoes. We set off 50km to Aberdeen. A nice few hills a long the B roads and wehit the A road in to town. There is a lovely bike path that makes what could have been hell into a lovely bike ride. As we enter town, Peter discovers why they call this the grey, granite city even in the sunshine the city is dull monotone. A stroke of luck falls our way as we discover the youth hostel is the same street that we are currently on. So we cruise in easily, dump or stuff and head into town. Takes a little time to find somewhere to eat, Bridgette can't remember much from the few months she spent here. We have a nice pub lunch to celebrate finishing. Then off to the bike shop, few things, bike shorts, new shoes, boxes for the bikes.


The weather is hot and we enjoy an ice-cream as we lug the boxes back to the youth hostel. Tom and Sarah need to leave as we return they have a ferry to the Shetlands leaving in a few hours. We then set about putting the bikes and trailers in to the boxes which was easier the second time round. We then dived in to an evening of washing, drying and packing.

Cairngorms: Tomintoul to Aboyne

Day 34
Distance- 64km (1651)
Weather- overcast, cloudy and then rain
Highlights- fantstic route Tom
Lowlights- 1 hr push through muddy single track
Accommodation- Aboyne campsite

Tired and a bit sore we emerge slowly from bed. This is Tom's day, he has a path planned through the Cairngorm back country along minor roads and single track that promises to be both scenic and more enjoyable then doing the 'Lecht road'. Bridgette learnt all about ‘the Lecht’ over breakfast while chatting to couple of Scots. She was explaining where we were going and they said in a very thick Scottish accents 'not thaa lecht'. ‘the what?’ said Bridgette. ‘the lecht?’ mmm what’s the Lecht. The Lecht turns out to be a ski resort and there is an amazingly steep and windy road that goes through it to Aberdeen. Very steep is apparently an under estimation and if you check this U-tube vieo clip you will know what I mean. Well anyway we were going another way.

So we headed off in the mist soon turning o the tarmac on to gravel. We followed a hunting road up a valley in the Cairngorms. The scenery was spectacular and there was not a soul in sight. The road was well graded and was followed by telegraph poles. I thought we are heading towards something substantial even though it felt like we were in the middle of no where. After a few kilometers we come across a hunting estate which sits over looking the river. This land was their land but due to the opening up of the Scottish highlands to the public we had right of way through, wow!

We continue through some ostentatious route iron gates and into flocks of highland sheep. The road continues dotted with abandoned dilapidated stone hunting cottages. On either side are steep grass covered hills. There are tall fences protecting the slopes probaably from deer as well as sheep. Patch of grass are burnt off which we are informed is done to promote growth to attract the grouse for hunting. This whole area shuts down in August for hunting. Peter spots a moving dark patch high on one hill and with Sarah’s new binoculars we are able to see a heard of deer.

All good things have to come to an end eventually and so did the road. The single track started which unfortunately had transformed into a bog with the recent rain. There was a lot of pushing and pulling as we dragged the trailers through a small track to the next section of road. The area had a distinct resemblance to Mt Field in Tasmania with the rivers forming small Tarns surrounded by rocks, grass and hills. We eventually got to the rood and had a well earnt break. A walker stops to say hallo and asks where we are heading. He remarks it’s the first time he's seen tourers up here, after the last hours of pushing we know why!

Off we race down the 'beautiful' graded road. There are a few rover crossings, most are ridable while a few we need unpack and carry the trailers across. A little rain start to fall as we get closed to the tarmac road we will take to Balater. We all start to fantasise about bakery products and hot coffee. We soon enter town and unfortunately neither are available. But they do have a Rockie mountain distributer so Sarah is able to get a much needed drop out. We leave town, only to stop a few meters down the road to fix another broken chain on Bridgette's bike. Tom and Sarah take the bike Path to Aboyne while Bridgette and Peter decided to A road it

The Aboyne campsite is lovely situated next to a lake, friendly staff, a hose and pot belly stove. We clean the bikes up which are caked in mud from this morning. Tom and Sarah arrive an hour later and we get the stove going to dry out shoes. Things begin to dry or melt (inner soles) and we cook dinner. More dhal with cheesy pittas followed by toffee cake with custard.